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The Boston Herald

"Indian eatery is "mom" to rest
A.C.Stevens
  

According to its menu, New Mother India was the first Indian restaurant in New England to install a tandoor oven, the first to open on Moody Street and the first to serve seven flavors of ice cream. We can’t verify those claims, but of all the Indian restaurants that line Moody Street, New Mother India seems consistently best and most distinctive.

On the table are more than the usual condiments: mango pickle, tamarind sauce, mango chutney, mint sauce and onion relish, each fresh-tasting and plentiful.

We started with the Mother India platter ($5.75), an assortment of fried

appetizers nicely presented under a lacy pappadam roof suspended by toothpicks. The crisp, flavorful selection included samosas, aloo tikki (vegetable patties), pakoras (fritters) and more.

Indian breads could make a meal in themselves, and New Mother India is no slouch in this department.

We had the puffy, delicate poori and Mother India nan ($2.95), a flat bread baked in the tandoor oven, stuffed with minced chicken and spices. The child in our party was delighted with this "pizza bread."

Chicken masala ($9.25) is a favorite dish that doesn’t appear on every Indian menu, so we get it whenever it does. The tandoori-cooked chicken in its creamy, spicy tomato sauce is eminently satisfying here.

The lamb curry ($10.25) had a strong, almost muttony taste, which played well against the mild yet complex spicing of the dish.

Be forewarned that if your children absolutely refuse to try Indian food, there aren’t any other options here. But the range of dishes is very wide and there should be something to please even picky eaters - they can always eat pizza bread, if nothing else.

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