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"MUST -TRY Menus"

Despite a high percentage of vegetarian and chicken dishes, Indian food isn't necessarily low-calorie food. Much blame can be laid on the paneer, the fresh cheese that's used in many dishes. A modicum of guilt also goes to the sauces made with nuts and cream. So while nine vegetables may ground to make malai kofta, cashews and cheese are also blended into the cream sauce mix.

Now along comes New Mother India (336 Moody St., Waltham) to sift the cheese from the spinach. Owing to customer demands and these "lite" times, the recently introduced menu lists 20 "low cal" dishes ranging from appetizers like behel-puri, an addictive blend of crisped rice mixed with chick pea flour, vegetables, some heady spices and tamarind sauce, to pan-roasted lamb with onions and tomatoes.

A longtime low-calorie favorite is baingan bharta. Slowly roasted eggplant is mashed with garlic and a mix of

spices and then quickly cooked with onions and peas to create dish whose richness belies its "low cal" tag. New to menu and definite must-try dishes are a trio of potato curries. Gobhi aloo joins cauliflower flowerets with potatoes and a heaping blend of spices to create a thick blend; zera aloo is more straight ahead as wedges of potatoes are tossed with tomatoes and a cumin-rich curry; while palak aloo mixes cubed potatoes in a bed of rich savory spinach.

From the meat choices, a new dish, chicken royal, finds boneless breast of chicken simmered with broccoli in a ginger-accented yogurt sauce, and joins longtime favorite chicken saag, a combination of curried chicken tossed in spinach.

And for those who are tired of this diet talk, New Mother India's ice cream supplier makes a delicious cinnamon ice cream exclusively for the restaurant.

Telephone: 893-3311.

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