| New Mother India
is something of a reincarnation of Mother India, one of
the first Indian restaurant on Moody street. The
"old" Mother India was a small corner shop with
very modest decor and a friendly demeanor. The friendly
demeanor still survives, but New Mother India is much
like a butterfly recently from an innocuous cocoon.
Service at New Mother India
is still friendly, attentive and always well-informed
about the food, yet consummately professional.
This is particularly impressive since the restaurant is a
family establishment and at end of the night the youngest
members come out to play in the dinning room.
The appetizers at New Mother India include delicious
little fritters called pakoras, elegant vegetable-filled
pastries called samosas and delicate lentil crisp which
can be ordered with raita, a yogurt cucumber dip.
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The breads are
not to be missed ! Nan is my favorite, unleavened and
usually laces with onions or potatoes.
Another is the fluffy, hollow breads called poori.
Paratha and chappati are whole wheat flat breads cooked
on a grill. The menu at New Mother India is extensive
and covers more than one regional cuisine of India.
Preparations tend to be similarly applied to chicken,
beef, lamb, shrimp and vegetarian.
For instance, a preparation of pan roasting with
onion, tomatoes and spices, known as do-piaza, is
available as home made cheese ( Paneer Do-piaza) or any
of the meat, poultry or seafood items. If you are a bit nervous about spices
and piquancy, don't be. The staff at New Mother India is
prepared to adjust spicing for individual taste.
However, be warned that a dish such as the dark, fragrant
lamb vindaloo is not the same without the kick.
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If there is a problem with spicy food,
order from the the Tandoori Specialties or Biryani. The
Tandoori specialties consists of wonderfully juicy
roasted meats served simply, while the Biryani are
elaborate rice dishes with hidden goodies such as
cashews, raisins and saffron. For those of you who are
familiar with Indian food, New
Mother India is first class and could be one of the best
Indian restaurant in Boston. If you are
just becoming interested in Indian food, or are a
vegetarian looking for a change, the prix fixe menus are
a perfect way to acquaint yourself with this cuisine.
Matthew Kestenbaum is a 1990 graduate of Johnson
and Wales University with an associate degree in Culinary
Arts. He has cooked at numerous restaurants in Washington
D.C., Providence R.I and in Boston, including at the
Copley Plaza Hotel in Boston. He is currently a sophomore
at Brandies.
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